The Lizard Howler Break Dance

Climb up an easy crack (5.9, hand size gear) to a series of bolts leading left into a cool scoop (crux one -- may be THE crux for tall climbers, but not bad at 5'5" or 5'7"). Climb the scoop (crux two) until a horizontal crack leads right (.4 BD camalot in the horizontal) into a huge cave. Rest up, because it's not over. 5.10 climbing on horizontals (clip a bolt up and left with a long sling) gets you up to easier terrain. Clip a bolt far left above the roof. Clip another bolt at a good stance, and rest up again. Clip a bolt over the lip of the little roof, and commit to the crack. Superb crack climbing (cruxes three and four) will get you to the chains.

On the clean, attractive, burnished buttress right of Twist of Fate. About 50 meters right of The Ultimate Dirty Sanchez.

From bottom to top, I used: #1 w/ long sling, four quickdraws, .4 w/ long sling, long sling, long sling, long sling, quickdraw, .3, .75, .75, and two more QD for the chains.

I'd recommend a variety of cams and nuts from 000 C3 to .75 for the upper crack. My rack above was pretty dialed in and specific to how I climbed the route. The upper crack varies a fair bit so bring a good assortment of pro.

70m rope.