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Peak Mountain 3

Ultimate Fist Crack

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Description

P1 (5.8) – Embrace the SAND and loose terrain as you grovel up the two short off-width ledges to gain access to the slot canyon. Clip the bolt to keep your rope from raking the dirty canyon floor. Head up, pull over the chockstone ledge and get comfy at the two-bolt anchor.P2 (5.10) – Stretch that groin and engage your stem/chimney climbing brain for the start –Namaste. Stem up and protect in the thin tips to finger crack until you can’t stretch it no more. Transition into the crack and get ready for the OW grovel with moments of delicate sandstone face dancing. Grovel, Grovel, Grovel. There is one bolt on the face right before you top out. Two bolt belay once you top out on the ledge. Rack: Doubles: .4-2, Triples: 3s, Four: 4s & Single: .2, .3, 5, & 6. Bring two double length slings and plenty of runners.P3 (5.walk) – Now that you’ve escaped the chrysalis of pitch 2, transcend in butterfly fashion up and over the hobbit boulder to the left and strut your proud grovely-self across the walkway to P4 glory. Three bolts along the way (added in case something catastrophically fails on the ledge) with the option to sling trees, if needed. At the third bolt, avoid surfing the sand for a few more steps to gain the two-bolt belay.  P4 (5.10+) – The main event. Channel your inner frat bro/guido as you fist-bump and jam up this meaty gem. Don’t blow your 4s too early. Two bolt anchor at the fourth ledge. Rack: Single: .75, 1, 2 & 5, Triples: 3s, Three to Five: 4sDescent: Reverse the process. Rap w/ 70 m rope.PSA: This route will likely always be a sandy adventure pursuit. If that's your speed, enjoy. Special thanks to James Croker and Rick Bantz for being a part of the initial recon and romp team.

Location

Head up canyon to the end of the pond area past Ultimate Finger Crack and Ultimate Dirty Sanchez. Enter the woody area at the end of the pond, which has a cut trail that leads you to the base of the wall. Once at the base of the  wall, follow along to the right and scramble up the obvious entrance to the slot.

Protection

Singles: .2-.4, 5 & 6, Doubles: .5-2, Triples: 3s, Four to

Five: 4s. Bring two double length slings and plenty of runners. 70 m rope.