Ultimate Bag Of Tricks

Think of this route as a longer, adventure climb requiring the use of a mixed bag of tricks. Please be careful with the rock on this route, especially at the beginning bolt sequence (delicate and slim) and the back of the chimney. If you can't make 5.11 moves with delicate feet and hands, I would encourage you to climb something else.

Put on your beanie, channel your inner boulderer, and delicately solve the three bolt boulder problem to gain access to the crack system (tree is off, you filthy animal). With the right beta, the delicate, off-balance sequence feels like 5.11?. With the wrong beta, it can fell improbable. Once on the ledge, sigh with relief, for you have made it 15 feet and solved the first crux. (Note: I recommend placing a high piece in the finger crack and then down climbing/reaching across to the third bolt and extending it. I would also encourage extending every piece from this point on, through the chimney exit.)

Say goodbye to the comfort of two good feet and fire the short finger section to a nice mantle ledge. Regain your composure and strut your stuff up the "ramp" toward the looming chimney. The base of the chimney is the troll, and the toll is squeezing your body up and through to get established. If you are used to squeezes, you know what to do here.

Grovel, grovel. Once established in the chimney, make like Santa racing dawn and shimmy up to the glory of the upper crux/chimney exit. Two bolts protect the chimney (Note: Be mindful of the rock features extending from the back of the chimney; these are very pretty and also delicate. Please be careful with these features to help preserve the beauty of the rock).

When exiting the chimney, reestablish in a vertical stance, maybe place some gear, and eye the upper crux. Take a breath, channel your inner Lynn Hill, and fire the moves; starts with fingers and finish with a fist/flare/desperate squeeze exit. God speed.

70 m rope or greater required to make it back to the ground.

Walk down canyon, passing Ultimate Dihederal on left. Route will be directly ahead on right wall, just right of the Ultimatum. 

Single: 1, 2, 5, & 6 Doubles: .3, .4, .75, & 4 Triple: .5 5 alpine draws & 10-12 slings 70 m rope