- Edit (TBD)
Description
This prominent left-leaning splitter on a panel of tempting looking black varnish sits high above the wash, and is obvious from the Ultimate Dihedral area. Sadly the varnish is crustier than one would hope for, but just remember this is Toroweap after all. Although short, this rig offers up cool movement that involves a mix of face climbing and jamming. The southern aspect is this line's biggest detractor, and makes it difficult to sneak in an ascent when it isn't baking in the sun during the typical Ultimates season. P1--An access ramble up a slab with a bolt at about 15' and some gear above. Belay on a large ledge, which you then walk right to a belay bolt below the splitter. Minimal cleaning was done on this pitch. (.6, 60')P2--Crank the leaning, slightly overhung splitter past a couple of bolts. There is one thin section, but mostly it is sustained at the grade for its short span. (.11, 60')
Location
On the black varnished face above and right of Young Guns. Scramble through oak/maples out of the wash on the upstream side of this buttress to a small open spot below the slab of pitch 1 (look for bolt about 15' up).
Protection
In BD sizes: (1X) .2, red C3, .3 (2X) .4, .5 (1X) .75-#3 Clip-and-lowers on P2. Chains on P1.
Routes in Ultimates West
- 18After the Gold Rush5.11Trad