- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1 (5.11 - 110ish ft) - Ultimate Bag of Tricks. From anchor, walk up sandy ramp to hands crack system on right. P2 (5.9 - PG-13 - 70 ft) - Climb the wavy hands crack, until even with the anchors to the left and then traverse left. Test your holds before committing. The big block on the traverse makes this PG-13; it wasn't cleared because I don't want to modify the environment in that drastic of a manner. Move with intent. P3 (5.12 - 110ish ft) - Bring the ruckus. Boulder problem off the anchor to get established in the crack seam. Move up into the pod, clipping the bolt on the left wall (not for whips, simply placed for rope direction). Move out of the pod and continue on your OW journey. Goes from 4s to 5s to 6s, with potential for a 7 or Big Bro. Bump and place your cams wisely. Best climbed early in the morning or in the late afternoon/evening. Gets sun during the day. Can rap in on the route from the 89 side.
Location
Start with Ultimate Bag of Tricks and go up. It's the big one up there, can't miss it.
Protection
70 m or greater required. P1 - Doubles or triples; see UBOT beta. P2 - Some hand sizes. P3 - Singles from .3-3; Double - 5; Triple - 4 & 6. You may find a 7 or Big Bro helpful. I used two 6's for the FFA, but for an onsight attempt you may want to bring triples. Bring plenty of runners.
Routes in Ultimates West
- 7Cry Havoc5.12-Trad