Ultimarete

STICK CLIP MANDATORY.Stick clip the first bolt.Make a difficult dyno to the starting holds (or if you can't, just pull up to them on the rope/anchor).Do wild campus-traversing left along an iron rail until you can stand up, make another move or two, and clip another bolt (end of crux one). Continue up and press out the mantle into the cave, and rest up.An airy roof pull out of the cave leads to the arete proper. Climb lovely moves into some lower quality but easier rock, then tackle the final shield (crux) which guards the chains. Climb through the crux (don't try to clip in the middle of it!), and clip the chains at your chest from the final holds, which are above the chains. (We had to put the anchor bolts a touch low due to deteriorating rock quality above.)

About 100 meters right of the UFC/Twist of Fate buttress is an attractive wall with a steep and stunning arete. This route starts on a shelf on the right side of that arete at a two bolt anchor. You can access this anchor by climbing the first 30 feet of Semi-ultimatic (gear protected) and continuing up and right, or you can brave the forest and bushwhack up to it about 30 meters right of the start of Semi-ultimatic.

9? quickdraws to chains. Maybe bring 11-12 to be safe.Stickclip (there should be a good stick at the base).