The Ultimate Dirty Sanchez

Approach as per the Ultimate Finger Crack and Twist of Fate. UDS is located in the corridor to the right of UFC.

Pitch 1 - Climb a grey slab past one bolt to a stance below the "beak" roof. Load up the beak with blue and yellow Metolius or green and yellow Aliens. Use long runners on this gear. Layback around the roof and climb across "the beach" ledge to a tight corner. (Pulling the roof is no harder than 5.10, but the commitment level is high hence the 5.11- rating.) Climb the tight hands corner (5.10, harder than it looks...) to a two bolt belay atop a pillar.

Pitch 2 - Launch up the sweet, right curving, splitter thin hands/hands crack. (5.10) After about 50' pull onto a small ledge and make an awkward 5.9 move around a small bulge. Continue up the widening crack to a two bolt rap anchor in a small alcove.

One double rope rap from the alcove anchor will land you back at your packs.

1 set stoppers 2 x Blue Metolius (Green Alien) 2 x Yellow Metolius (Yellow Alien) 2 x .5 Camalot (Old Sizes) 2 x .75 Camalot (Old Sizes) 2 x 1 Camalot (Old Sizes) 2 x 1 Camalot (Old Sizes) 1 x 3 Camalot (Old Sizes) 1 x 3.5 Camalot (Old Sizes) 1 x 4 Camalot (Old Sizes)