- Edit (TBD)
Description
From the gear-up area, carefully walk 15 ft left to a tree tie-in/belay at the base of a vegetated crack and a clean slab with 1 bolt. Originally this climb started in the short, vegetated crack below the triple-trunked birch tree but now the short slab to the right has been cleaned and a bolt added. Use either approach to reach the birch tree 15-20 ft up.P1 (The Green line on the "Slab Photo") From triple-trunked birch tree, step right and continue up to the right-facing flake (gear in flake, green 0.75 Camalot), step left onto the cleaner rock and up to a left-rising crack/ledge with tiny vegetation growing in it. Step left along this to a black bolt. Continue up along the crack/groove (5.6/5.7) for several moves, then straight up to a flattish area, [or climb the clean slab directly up past the black bolt. (5.8 ish] to the same flat area] As with "Middle of the Night" take one of three possible endings to reach the belay at the double bolt anchor. 100 ft 5.7 +/-, or continue to the tree ledge ( 140 +/- ft) The double bolt anchor is set for a 60m (200 ft) single-rope rap to the ground.This was the first climb on the slab and was originally listed as an alternative P1 for "A Night Climb for Two Nights".
Location
On the clean "A Night Climb..." slab, about 200-250 ft right of the starts of "Time Space" or ATU. From the starts of "Time-Space Continuum" and "Across the Universe [ATU]", continue 30-40 ft up along the base of the steep side of the ATU slab and then cut horizontally right to the next slab (the "Star Trek" slab), descend to the "toe" of that slab; continue around to the right and down. Pass by a large overturned oak and then cross a 15-20 ft section of clean slab where a 2nd tree has recently (2020) been blown over. Once beyond this, zig-zag up the steep slope, keeping just to the left of the highly-lichened slab that is to your right, headed for a "triple trunked birch tree" about 15 ft up the cliff on your left. From Cinema Gully or the RR Tracks - It probably best to go back down to the RR tracks and take the path up to "Star Trek/Night Climb". Walk along the RR Tracks about 150 ties beyond the gully and look for a 2nd cairn*. Follow cairns up on a zig-zagging crude path. [ 2020 update there now is a large tree blown down. This does not block the crude path but does force you to the right, which is where you want to go. ] Cross 15 ft of a newly-exposed slab (smaller tree blew down), then up following a zig-zagging path to the base. Avoid going too far right, if you find yourself below a really mossy slab you are too far right, the correct approach path climbs up a steep slope in the woods, just lefdt of the left edge of this mossy slab headed for a "triple trunked birch" tree 15 ft up the cliff. There's a reasonably flat area just before the start.*2020 Update - As you continue to walk up the tracks from Cinema, there's a cairn about 100 ft beyond the gully. This is a "direct" approach to the "Across the Universe" and "Time Space" ; the path up to "A Night Climb..." is a bit further up the tracks.
Protection
Draws for the bolt(s) and Green (0.75) and/or purple (0.5) Camalot
Routes in 03. Main Slab
- 21First Knight Returns (1 pitch)5.7Alpine · Trad