Butterfingers

This takes a line to the left of Hugo's Revisited and right of Cinema Gully. Name come from the slippery bolts that seemed to slip out of the hand(s) of one of the FA leaders!1) START on Hugo's, at the 3rds bolt (up about 75-100 ft) diverge from Hugo's by tranding up and left (same as for the Standard Route). There are three(3) tree/bush bunches: the right most is Hugo's, the left most (almost into Cinema Gully itself) is on Standard, you want to go to the small group of bushes/small tree(s) that is in-between these two larger bunches.  220 ft  (70m rope) 5.6-5.7(?)  Dbl bolt anchor on sandy ledge. Take care on sloping ledge there are still some lose rocks.P2 – Climb the headwall above (3 Bolts, said to be 5.7+ / 5.8- or 5.7 A-0 at 2nd bolt) continue up on nice slab. Ignore a bolt off to the right (off route) but climb up a small “corner-ish”/ gully and step left to a dbl bolt anchor.  120 +/- ft, 5.7+ / 5.8-  P3 – Climb the slab to a double bolt anchor on another sandy ledge.  115 ft +/- 5.6 +/- P4- Climb up on a slab and then right-ish into a big, left-facing corner (neither visible very well on the photo).  At the top of the corner step left and up onto the “white slab”.  Here the first ascenders had planned on climbing directly up the slab (now known as “5.9-ish scary”, which probably translates from “Sykes-in-ese” into 5.10!) but the result is a bolt placed too high and too far right.  Nevertheless, Clip the bolt, and then step down and left to reach the left “Arete” of the slab.  Up this for a few moves, then traverse back right and up to the double bolt anchor.  140 +/- ft 5.8 or so. If planning to continue onto the upper tier, you may want to continue up and right to a belay tree.Descent: Rap the route

You can rap from Belay 3 to belay 1 with double 70m ropes, but not double 60m’s If you do this the best "approach" to the anchors of P1 may be to rap over the overhang and then walk back right to the bolts, rather than trying to tension-traverse rap directly to the bolts.  

The rap from Belay 1 to the base MAY (?) need double 70m’s, If you only have 60’s then traverse to the Hugo’s tree ledge

To the "toe" of the slab at the base of Cinema Gully via the path from Rt 302 to Hatties Garden (the garden itself) on the RR tracks, then a short walk back up the tracks. Full details in the Mt Willard AREA.

Std Rack