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Peak Mountain 3

Asteroid Belt

FA Todd Swain, roped solo June 10, 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A slab climb left of Standard. Todd's rating is a bit "old school" 5.6. and the protection is a bit marginal above P1. [5.7 PG-13/R ??]  The bold text is the description, essentially, from Webster's 2nd Ed. Italic is our description.START-Left of the "toe" (and left of the start of Standard). In Oct 2015 we followed the base up and left through bushes and started about 30-35 ft left of the "toe", at the left end of the 6-8 ft overlap, and where the base drops down a few feet to go around sort of a "corner".

P1 - 200 +/- feet to the tree ledge. 5.3  We climbed up and stayed generally to the right where flakes and cracks provided more-than-expected chances for gear placements, especially if you have small wired nuts. 200ft 5.3-5.4 PG-13P2 - Over the headwall on steep flakes, then diagonal left to a birch tree (still there??) belay. 50 ft 5.6 The flakes on the "headwall" allowed for gear (med. cams) but we found the slab immediately above more difficult than expected. (5.6+/5.7 PG-13/R) and there were also some thin moves on marginal gear above that. We went up to a tree island. 100-115 ft (NOT "50 ft") 5.6+/5.7 PG-13/R) Maybe Todd's "birch tree belay" at 50ft is gone.P3 - Angle left on grassy ledges to the large tree ledge. 200 +/- feet 5.4 (Looking at the cliff, I'd guess it would be more like 300 ft of climbing. )Here we sort of goofed! Lured on by the clean slabs above we continued on up instead of heading left on "grassy ledges".Our P3- About 6-8 ft left of the belay tree we moved up the short, steeper wall and gained the slab, crossed it diagonally to the right (pro in a crack not seen from below) to a streak of white rock. Up this to the bushes, then back left and up an easy slab to a 3-4 inch diameter oak in gravel in a short right-facing corner. We belayed here but it’s far better to continue 15-20 ft to a nice ledge just left of a triple bolt anchor. 115 - 140 ft  5.6 

2021 Update- the old, non-stainless bolts have now been re-enforced with a 3rd Stainless bolt, plus there is a stainless bolt a few feet left on a good, sandy ledge so this is now the better belay and rap station.P4 - Our P4 was supposed to go up (past the dbl bolts) to the Big Tree Ledge. Lured on by the belief that at least one of the "5.4 - 5.6" variants of the Standard Route MUST climb this section of rock was, shall we say, a mistake. If you make it to the Big Tree Ledge, it is more of a "hike" than you might think up, and then diagonal-up right to get to most of the "upper tier" climbs.2020/2021 Update- see the routes “Falling Bidies, Falling Bodies Direct, and/or Bob and Ralph’s Great Adventure” for descriptions on gaining the Big Tree Ledge.To get to the top of Hugo's and/or Time Traveler Revisited, go up, diagonal right, then downWHENEVER HIKING ON THE BIG TREE LEDGE PLEASE BE CAREFUL OF ROCKS JUST LAYING ON THE SURFACE, OR (WORSE) JUST BELOW THE LEAVES.Descent - IF you do make it to the Big Tree Ledge, there's a tree on the left with a rap ring. (Probably mostly used in winter. Cinema gully ends here.) Rap with two 60m ropes back down to the belay at the dbl bolt or slightly lower small oak. Then another 2 x 60m makes it FROM THE OAK to the tree ledge at end of P1. (Not 100% sure 2 x 60m from the dbl bolt would make it, but would think they would since the bolts obviously pre-date routine use of 70m ropes.) Then a final 2 x 60m rap to the ground, although a single 70m might make it.Single 70m Rope Descent Updated 2021- From the Big Tree Ledge and the tree with rap ring, either scramble, climb, or do a short rappel (10m, 30-35 ft) down from the tree to the dbl bolt anchor on the dark-colored-rock wall to your left as you look out ( skiier’s left) from the tree.   1) Rap 34 m to the dbl (now triple) bolt anchor by some small trees and a grassy ledge. 2) Rap 35 m to a 6-7inch diameter oak tree in some shrubs on a sloping, sandy ledge. (Rap sling left Aug ‘20 & Oct ‘21) 3) Rap 32-34m to a dbl bolt anchor on the low-angle slab below the B&R’s Great Adventure anchor. After rapping over the vertical section, look down and right for this anchor.   4) Rap rappeler’s right 30-32m to a dbl bolt anchor.  BEWARE rock fall when pulling rope. 5) Rap 20m  to the ground at base of Cinema. NOTE: "Rap 35 m" means 35m (115 ft) NOT 33 or 32 ! TIE KNOTS.

Protection

Std Rack, wire brush perhaps would be useful.