- Edit (TBD)
Description
(The Yellow line on the photo ) Runs up the middle of the clean slab just left of "A Night Climb for Two Knights" (slab just right of the "not lichen it" start of Star Trek), and can be used as an alternate start to "Night Climb / Star Trek" or climbed as a stand-alone pitch. The double bolt anchor is set for a 60m (200 ft) single-rope rap to the ground.P1 - From the gear-up area, carefully walk 15 ft left to a tree tie-in/belay at the base of a vegetated crack and a clean slab with 1 bolt. Originally this climb started in the short, vegetated crack below the triple-trunked birch tree but now the short slab to the right has been cleaned and a bolt added. Use either approach to reach the birch tree 15-20 ft up.Move up and left 10-15 ft across face, passing below a small overlap (gear, small cam or TCU) stepping up and left to the first bolt. Up (5.6 +/-) past two (or 3?) more bolts to a flat-ish area. Three possible endings: 1) ( Easiest) Move right on the flat area to the "groove" corner of "A Night Climb..." Up this passing the dwarf birch, to the 2 bolt anchor on the left. Total distance 90-100 ft 5.6 +/- (or continue easily to the tree ledge, total about 140 ft)
- (About 5.7 / 5.8-) Step up from the flattish area, clip the first black bolt and then traverse right to the "Night Climb" corner and up to the anchor.3) ( 5.9 ?) Continue up from the first black bolt, clip the 2nd and then up to the anchor.
Location
On the clean "A Night Climb..." slab, about 200-250 ft right of the starts of "Time Space" or ATU. From the starts of "Time-Space Continuum" and "Across the Universe [ATU]", continue 30-40 ft up along the base of the steep side of the ATU slab and then cut horizontally right to the next slab (the "Star Trek" slab), descend to the "toe" of that slab; continue around to the right and down. Pass by a large overturned oak and then cross a 15-20 ft section of clean slab where a 2nd tree has recently (2020) been blown over. Once beyond this, zig-zag up the steep slope, keeping just to the left of the highly-lichened slab that is to your right, headed for a "triple trunked birch tree" about 15 ft up the cliff on your left. From Cinema Gully or the RR Tracks - It probably best to go back down to the RR tracks and take the path up to "Star Trek/Night Climb". Walk along the RR Tracks about 150 ties beyond the gully and look for a 2nd cairn*. Follow cairns up on a zig-zagging crude path. [ 2020 update there now is a large tree blown down. This does not block the crude path but does force you to the right, which is where you want to go. ] Cross 15 ft of a newly-exposed slab (smaller tree blew down), then up following a zig-zagging path to the base. Avoid going too far right, if you find yourself below a really mossy slab you are too far right, the correct approach path climbs up a steep slope in the woods, just left of the left edge of this mossy slab headed for a "triple trunked birch" tree 15 ft up the cliff. There's a reasonably flat area just before the start.*2020 Update - As you continue to walk up the tracks, there's a cairn about 100 ft beyond Cinema gully. I presume this is a "direct" approach to the "Across the Universe" and "Time Space" but haven't actually taken it.
Protection
Draws for the bolts, small cam
Routes in 03. Main Slab
- 20Middle of the Night (1 pitch)5.6Alpine · Trad