Grey Ghost (1 pitch)

As you climb on Willard, beware of the Ghosts of "Climbers Past". Willard was the haunt of Henderson, Underhill and a host of other climbers from the early days. Named for the color of the bolt hangers, the only hangers available at IME in the “COVID” spring-summer of 2020.P1  START on the slab, right of the dirty crack and directly below the birch tree.  Climb up past 1 bolt to the birch tree, then into the corner/right-facing flake [gear, med cams], same as for "First Knight Returns", but at the top move right to the 2nd grey bolt.  Make thin, tricky move(s) (one smear hold is particularly slippery but not necessary) past a closely-spaced 3rd bolt to the beautiful "arête".  Up this past B#4, and gear (med cam)  higher up in a crack.  A move or two up the gully, then step right to the 5th bolt on the right “wall”.  Up the better-than-it-looks dark rock (6th bolt) ending at the tree ledge.  140 ft 5.8+  ( +/-)  Above B#5 it is possible to move up and left to the double bolt anchor on the slab. If you finish on the tree ledge there is a rap station on the 4-5-inch diameter oak tree to your left. Make two raps, utilizing the double bolt anchor on the slab, or rap with two ropes. (even a single 70 only makes it to the birch tree) The bottom 2/3rds of the route can be top roped from the double bolt anchor with a directional through Bolt #5.

On the clean "A Night Climb..." slab, about 200-250 ft right of the starts of "Time Space" or ATU. From the starts of "Time-Space Continuum" and "Across the Universe [ATU]", continue 30-40 ft up along the base of the steep side of the ATU slab and then cut horizontally right to the next slab (the "Star Trek" slab), descend to the "toe" of that slab (now, 2020, exposed by a large tree-root system upended in a storm); continue around to the right and down. Take care crossing a 15-20 ft section of clean slab where a 2nd tree has recently (2020) been blown over. (Or, descend, cross below the base of this slab and then climb back up the other side.)  Once beyond this, zig-zag up the steep slope, keeping just to the left of the highly-lichened slab that is to your right, headed for a "triple trunked birch tree" about 15 ft up the cliff on your left.  From Cinema Gully or the RR Tracks - It probably best to go back down to the RR tracks and take the path up to  "Night Climb/Star Trek".  Walk  along the RR Tracks about 150 ties beyond the gully and go up at the 2nd cairn* you pass. Follow cairns up on a zig-zagging crude path. [ 2020 update there now is a large tree blown down. This does not block the crude path but does force you to the right and up, which is where you want to go.]  Take care crossing a 15-20 ft section of clean slab where a 2nd tree has recently (2020) been blown over. (Or, descend, cross below the base of this slab and then climb back up the other side.) then up following a zig-zagging path to the base. Avoid going too far right, if you find yourself below a really mossy slab you are too far right, the correct approach path climbs up a steep slope in the woods, just left of the left edge of this mossy slab headed for a "triple trunked birch" tree 15 ft up the cliff. There's a reasonably flat area just before the start. *2020 Update - As you continue to walk up the tracks, there's a cairn about 100 ft beyond the gully. This is a "direct" approach to the "Across the Universe" and "Time Space".  

About 6-7 draws, Green (0.75) and maybe a purple (0.5) Camalot