- Edit (TBD)
Description
Disclaimer- Not being of mind to run out on an ancient 1/4 bolt placed in a water course, and not having large cams, we top-roped this pitch, although RW did lead the corner pitch, arriving at the base of the corner by climbing the protected Falling Bodies Direct and moving left.Start on the left end of the sandy/grassy belay ledge used for Falling Bodies and FB-Direct. Might as well clip the first bolt on Falling Bodies Direct as you pass by. Now climb up and left, along sort of ramp-like steps to the piton and bolt in a streak of brown rock. I climbed up pretty much directly above the piton, onto a clean face above, which was surprisingly easy ( 5.6 - 5.7 +/- ) to a ledge with bush(es). Continue (run out) to the base of the large flake/corner. Large Cam ( #4, although a #3 will fit but is almost tipped out) .
At the top of the corner make an awkward and difficult-to-rate move out right ( 5.7 - 5.8?? #5 cam? ) to the face. (After a few feet you can step back left to the corner to place pro for your partner.) Continue up and right on easier rock.
Belay choices aren’t pretty. Belaying from the B&R Adventure anchor exposes the follower to a potential horrible swing, while going up to the Cinema Gully tree involves the rope running over an intervening buttress and through trees. Good luck Mr. Phelps!
Location
On the big slab left of the ice climb Cinema Gully. About 15-20 ft left of Left of Falling Bodies DirectStarts on same sandy belay ledge as Falling Bodies & FB Direct. This ledge is 20-25 ft up and left of the top pitch of B&R’s Great Adventure, and about 110 ft below the Big Tree Ledge. There's a triple-bolt rap anchor (2 old, 1 new) and a new bolt on the sandy ledge itself.
Protection
Screamers for old bolts, large Cams ( #3, 4 and maybe 5 ) for corner of flake.
Routes in 03. Main Slab
- 2Unknown (Mid-Cliff Start)5.8-Alpine · Trad