Cut to Pieces

Cut to Pieces is a fun face climb that is well-protected.  It is similar to the first pitch of Metalhead but is a little bit easier and doesn’t have any short runout sections like the lower part of Metalhead.  Once you climb a little ways off the belay to the first bolt, the rest of the pitch is for the most part tightly bolted.

Climb a 60-foot approach pitch (easy 5th/4th) up a left-facing corner and belay atop two large blocks.  The belay takes cams in the 1.25” to 2.5” range.  Most climbers will choose to scramble up to the top of the blocks while others may want to climb with a belay.  Bring a few additional cams in the 0.75” to 1.25” range if you lead the approach pitch.  See descriptive photo.

From the top of the blocks, climb up and left off the belay up a shallow ramp to the first bolt, then climb mostly straight up for the rest of the pitch.  There is a 5.9 crux after the third bolt, a sustained 5.9 section in the middle of the pitch, and a 5.10a/b crux higher on the pitch.  Overall, the pitch is relatively sustained but does have a few rests here and there.  Belay at a 2-bolt anchor with chains at a small stance.  (13 lead bolts)

One rappel with two ropes (130 feet to the lower belay on top of the blocks; 190 feet to the base shelf; 210+ feet to dirt).

This is the next bolted route to the right of Claymore, on the far-right side of Razor Back.  The pitch goes up a section of white rock with green lichen, just right of a prominent black streak.  See descriptive photo.

Minimum 13 draws for lead bolts

Cams 1 ea. 1.25” – 2.5” (for lower belay atop blocks)

Cams 1 ea. 0.75” – 1.25” (optional, for approach pitch)