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Peak Mountain 3

Bayonet

FA Bryan Law and Linda Jarit, August 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Bayonet is more featured and is easier than the routes to the left.  To get to Bayonet, climb the first pitch of Incision and belay on cams at a small ledge at the base of the prominent left-facing corner (5.7, 1 lead bolt, cams 2 ea. 0.5” – 2.5”; see route page for Incision).  Then move the belay down and left along the ramp to the lower bolted anchor of Bayonet (place gear along the ramp traverse for the follower if necessary).  Another option to get to Bayonet is to climb Cut to Pieces, then rappel with two ropes to the lower bolted anchor of Bayonet.  A single 70m rope might reach the anchor but I am not sure.

From the lower bolted anchor of Bayonet, climb above the belay to a small shelf, then past three bolts to a 5.8+ crux.  Continue past three more bolts to a stance with a 2-bolt anchor with chains.  There is a little bit of a runout between the fifth and sixth bolts although the climbing is easier.  (6 lead bolts)

90-foot rappel to the lower bolted anchor, then a 100-foot rappel to the shelf at the base of the approach pitch of Cut to Pieces.  Or, one long rappel with two ropes.

Location

Bayonet is the next bolted route to the right of Cut to Pieces, on the far-right edge of Razor Back.  It begins on the lower left end of the ramp below the Incision pitch 2 corner.  See descriptive photo.

Protection

Minimum 6 draws for lead bolts

Cams 2 ea. 0.5” – 2.5” (for pitch 1 of Incision and belay)