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Peak Mountain 3

Lacerator

FA Bryan Law, Linda Jarit, Corey Flynn, and Lucho Rivera, 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch starts up easy featured slab, just right of a series of stacked blocks, and past a small overlap to a right-facing arch that accepts gear (0.4” – 0.5” cams).  Climb over the arch and past two bolts (5.9).  Then climb left to the third bolt, straight up to the fourth, then back right to the final two bolts.  There is a 5.10a crux between the fourth and fifth bolts, where it traverses back right, and a 5.10+ crux between the sixth bolt and the belay ledge.  Bring long slings to reduce rope drag on this pitch.  Belay at a 2-bolt anchor with chains on a nice ledge.  (5.10+ PG13, 6 bolts plus small cams, ~105 feet)

The second pitch starts up and just left of the anchor and has eight bolts.  The 5.11a crux is somewhere around the fourth or fifth bolt – a super-long reach to a mantel.  The lower section of the pitch is well-protected and the upper section has two bolts that are spaced farther apart, where the climbing is easier.  This pitch shares the second pitch belay anchor of Slasher.  (5.11a, 8 bolts, ~100 feet)

From the second pitch anchor of Slasher, you can either rap the route or continue on the third pitch of Slasher.  (5.10d, 9 bolts, ~110 feet)

The first pitch of both Slasher and Lacerator end on the same ledge, so another option is to do the first pitch of Slasher, then traverse about 20 feet right along the ledge to the Lacerator anchor (move belay), then do the second pitch of Lacerator and then the third pitch of Slasher.

All belay anchors have two bolts with chains.

Location

Lacerator starts about 25 feet to the right of Slasher.

Protection

Minimum 8 draws for lead bolts (9 draws for pitch 3 of Slasher)

Cams 1 ea. 0.4” – 0.5” (for pitch 1)

Long slings