Metalhead

Great route that is slightly harder than some of its neighbors to the left. Pitch one is documented in the newest SuperTopo guide for the area, but the climb actually continues onward for 3 pitches total.

Pitch 1:

Climb 25 feet of great, easy knobs to the first bolt. Next, friction left and a bit upwards for 10-12 feet and look up at the next 100+ feet of sustained smeding and friction (5.10+). Awesome. The bolt line will lead you towards a tree and mantel to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor.

NOTE:

Please try NOT to use the beautiful little tree as you mantel onto the first pitch belay ledge. Instead, hand traverse the ledge under the tree, rather than climbing over and behind it, and

please run the rope

under

it

as you move past to the belay. (5.10+; 12 bolts; 140 feet).

Pitch 2:

To the left of the belay, climb about 25 feet up an easy ramp to the first of five bolts that protect the 5.11b section of the pitch.  Use a long sling on the fifth bolt to reduce rope drag.  There is a gear placement in a horizontal crack a little ways above the fifth bolt and then a short easy section up a ramp to the left that leads to the sixth bolt.  Continue past four more bolts and a 5.10c mantel.  After the last bolt there is a runout to a nice belay ledge up and to the right.  (5.11b; 10 bolts plus small cams).

Pitch 3:

Climb up and left from the belay past four bolts to a belay ledge. (5.10c; 4 bolts).

All belay anchors have two bolts with chains. Three rappels with two ropes to the base.

Metalhead is on the middle-left side of the continuous, nice white slab that forms the right side of Razor Back. The route begins almost directly below the tree in the picture of the route I posted. The 'Razor Back, right side routes' beta photo (courtesy of B. Law) provides an overview of the wall that shows all of the belay locations for the route.

12-15 draws including some longer draws

Cams 1 ea. 0.75” – 1” (for pitch 2)