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Peak Mountain 3

Arrogant Bastard

FA Bryan Law and Linda Jarit, July 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch goes up the slab and past a bolt to a gear placement at a bulge.  Climb over the bulge then up and right, following a diagonal crack that accepts gear.  Then climb up and slightly left, past two bolts to a small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor with chains.  (5.8, 3 lead bolts plus gear)

The second pitch starts up a right-facing flake and then past two bolts (5.8/5.9).  Continue to an overlap that accepts gear and two more bolts to a belay stance with a 2-bolt anchor with chains.  There is an unprotected 5.10a crux between the last bolt and the anchor and a fall here wouldn’t be clean, so be careful.  (5.10a PG13, 4 lead bolts plus gear)

80-foot rappel to pitch 1 anchor, then two-rope rappel to dirt.

The name was inspired by the demonic character on this Stone Brewing label.

Location

The route is just right of Dirty Rotten Scoundrel, and a ways left of Dastardly Rascal.  It starts lower on the slab than the two routes to the left.  Walk up about 20 feet to a belay stance below a couple of tan water streaks, where the climbing begins.  See descriptive photos.

Protection

Minimum 4 draws for lead bolts

Cams 1 ea. 0.4” – 1.5”

Slings