- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start up about 15 feet of Ultimate Finger Crack copycattery. Clip bolt, then place gear on the left in a parallel crack while jamming the spooky flake to a giant sit down ledge. Clip a bolt, then either layback or starfish your way up to a steep move to gain a stance on a sloping ledge. Up the corner on super solid choss, past a sweet crack, to an airy perch beneath the bulging crux. Now it starts getting really good! Climb through sweet finger locks to a punch in the face move to gain the final layback. Clip chains, the end.
Location
About 15 minutes down-canyon from Ultimate Dihedral is a scenic section of narrows flanked on each side by very steep overhanging walls. This route is on the east side wall at the start of the narrows, behind a large tree. It is the longest route in the area.
Protection
Double set from blue metolius to #2. 5-6 quickdraws, 5-6 long runners. 70M rope mandatory.
Routes in Ultimates East
- 24Pump Drunk5.12-Trad