Ultimate Something

The route has some variety and will likely leave you saying, “Wow, that was something.” The main characteristics here are the squeeze section and some highly aesthetic sugary looseness. Those with bigger butt sizes might find this route to be much harder. I have a 30” waist and fit well.Start by scrambling up to the double cracks. Jam your way up one or the other, or both, to a spacious ledge. From there use the slanting undercling crack towards your right to gain the base of the squeeze. Place your 6 and work your way into the squeeze. From here a 7 will take you to a bolt. Above the bolt, a .4 or .5 will fit in a sandy horizontal and that will take you to a ledge above the squeeze. An 8 will likely make the squeeze section more comfortable, although not necessary with the bolt. The biggest piece I had was a 7, and the bolt was placed on lead while wedged in the squeeze.From the ledge above the squeeze, a few easier moves brings you to a bigger ledge on the left with a two bolt rap anchor. It is possible to climb another 20 feet to the top although it’s pretty dirty. 

On the east wall of the canyon near the approach slot. Hike below the fixed line a bit and then it’s visible on your right (north). 

70 M rope, double cams BD .4-3, single .2, .3, 4, 6. Optional 7, 8 or blue big bros.