- Edit (TBD)
Description
The arete of Pumphouse! Long striking arete with mostly good rock. Start with horizontals past a reachy bit to a crux at a blank spot by the arete. An easy crack leads to a small roof and a move to a lower anchor (5.12- to here). From the lower anchor fall left to a jug and begin sustained hard moves past bolts to a show stopper run to the chains.
Location
The striking arete just right of Teddy Bear's Picnic. This route is just a short ways downstream of Old Tomato (which is about 5 min downstream of Ultimate Dihedral) on the east side of the canyon. Hike up a subtle climber's trail past an initial boulder, then alongside an amazing tall boulder split with multiple vertical hand and finger cracks. The route is just above the crack boulder, and climbs the obvious arete.
Protection
1x .3-#2, 11 draws.
Routes in Ultimates East
- 18The Battle of Who Cares5.12+Trad