- Edit (TBD)
Description
Dedicated to Michael Sullivan. My friend, adventure partner, world traveler, and compassionate human.P1 5.8: Travel up the left facing corner; sandy but fun. Top out on the steep "beach", clipping a bolt on a boulder to mitigate the sketch factor; possibly making the move interesting (?)! Waddle up the dune to an anchor at the base of a clean chimney/corner. Belay from there if your partner deserves some sand showers; otherwise, extend the belay to the top of the P1 corner.P2 5.9: Work up the clean, interesting corner to a ledge with rap anchor (60 ft).P3 5.10: Clip a bolt off the belay and launch up the left facing corner. Twenty feet under the roof/pod, make an airy traverse left on steep jugs and bolts towards an arete (crux). Pick your holds wisely as there is some soft rock on this section. Gain the ledge and make an awkward traverse right (PG) to gain another wide ledge. Use runners here to lessen rope drag. Finish on 3 bolts to a slung tree anchor.Decent: Rap the routeP3 to top of P2P2 to top of P1 P1 to ground
Location
Use the Secret Passage approach described in The Ultimates. Upon reaching the canyon floor, look east and locate the 300 foot outcropping which holds The Lorax, Aching Thorax, and Sullivan's Travels. ST is on the far left side, starting at a left facing corner in a shady area where a drainage enters the canyon.
Protection
Standard rack to #3, draws, runners, nuts.
Routes in Ultimates East
- 5Sullivan's Travels5.10aTrad