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Peak Mountain 3

Bulging Codpiece (submitted as On the Crest)

FA S. Guerin, Miller
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a worthwhile variation to

Rincon

pitch 2. From the belay at the end of

Rincon

P1, ascend a 20' series of broken corners in the left wall of the large

Rincon

dihedral; this crux section is strenuous, especially placing gear, but the moves aren't too hard. As the corner ends, pull onto a slab. From here, you can either go left into

Center Route's

second pitch or follow

OTC

straight up the slab. The slab option is nice, low angle face climbing up to 5.9 with some big runouts. At some point, traverse back right from the slab into the the

Rincon

corner. We traversed about 20' below the anchors at the end of

Rincon

P2 which was fun but required some work before, during, and afterwards to keep the rope running well. A smoother alternative might be to continue up the slab until level with the belay and then traverse easily right.

There is a little loose rock in the crux section.

Protection

RPs to a blue Camalot, some long runners, and plenty of quickdraws.