Mind Over Matter

This is another good toprope problem between

Rincon

and

Five Ten Crack

. It crosses a small overlap about twenty feet up and takes a seam to a ledge. The crux is right past the overlap, insecure face climbing, the "5.10" seam above is more like .11a/b, this route [doesn't] get led much for obvious reasons, yet is a great toprope, it also feels quite a bit harder than

Raccoon Soup

maybe in the 11d/12a range.

Per

Adam Brink

: this is a top quality and neglected, 5.11, Eldo slab testpiece that has been largely ignored because of an undeserved reputation. If this route was on the gritstone in England, it would be a classic must do for every E4 aspiring leader and regularly sprayed all over Instagram. Instead, it is an ignored mini-classic, because it is at one of the best trad crags in Eldo, and most Boulderites have gotten a bit soft and aren't willing to face a small runout. It really is a sad state of affairs.

Go directly up to the overlap (which is harder and slightly illogical once you try it) or go up 5.10 crack to the obvious foot ledge, and traverse left to the bottom of the over lap. At this point, there are actually 2 pieces that might hold. We pull tested them from the ground, and they felt solid (fall on them at your own risk). You can also use two ropes and put an RP in 5.10 crack where you traverse left. This made it feel plenty safe. Climb over the little roof, place lots of good, small gear, and have a spanking fun time on the thin climbing above.

There is maybe one or two moves of 5.11a and the rest is 5.9 or 5.10. All of it is quality, thin climbing. Go ground up, and enjoy the excitement in a proper way. Bring the adventure back to Eldo.

Didn't check out the pro on this one, there might be some in the overlap, but it would suck, the seam above might take some rp's, but of course that's after the crux.

Per

Adam Brink

: the protection is better than it looks at first. With 2 ropes, it is probably more like PG13. Place a #5 RP high in the 5.10 crack for your right rope where you traverse left. Place a couple pieces for your left rope at the bottom of the overlap. Pull the small roof, and place bomber gear. With this gear set up, there is little chance of decking unless you totally blow it after pulling the roof.