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Peak Mountain 3

Reveley-Hunter

FA Chris Revely and Diana Hunter
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a bit of an adventure pitch right of

Rincon's

second pitch. We started from the 2 bolt anchor for

Five-Eight Crack

after climbing

Five-Ten Crack

as a first pitch. This is a good place to start the pitch due to a hefty crop of poison ivy in the crack on the low angle slab leading to the corner. Some people have successfully rigged pro to keep the line out of the poison ivy continuing straight on from

Five-Ten Crack

, but it would be easy to to drag the rope through the poison ivy without due consideration. I would not want to attempt it from first pitch of

Rincon

due to the poison ivy issue.

So climb from the

Five-Eight Crack

anchor up and right and sling the small tree to keep the rope way to the right. It adds a little rope drag but keeps the rope out of the poison ivy.

It is a little "R" to get into the corner (5.8 or so) while keeping the rope air born out of the PI and get your first piece(s). If you are comfortable leading 5.10, it isn't bad.

Then into the fun varied corner. This has some typical, fiddly Eldo pro placements, but once fiddled, the pro is quite good. There are some spicy moves above pro and some placements can be hard to see when placing. After an old pin on the left (with placements to back this up), climb left up the slightly overhanging arete until you get established on the face to the left (a little run out, PG-13). Climb up into the corner under the roof, and through it, or step out left earlier to pass the overhang to the left. If you clip the pin under the roof, extend it or expect bad rope drag. Follow the crack above the roof to a couple face moves ending up on the sloping ledge leading left to the

Rincon

pitch 2 anchor.

Location

This is the next right-facing corner right of second pitch of

Rincon

.

Rap to the

Five Eight Crack's

anchor, and do another rap to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3. Small Tricams also useful.