Cosmic Wave

The unlikely looking zone to the right of the

Rincon

dihedral delivers a stack of 5.11 climbing and a 12a crimpy face crux.

5.8 or 5.10a (70 feet). Climb

Five Eight

or

Five Ten Crack

, and continue up and right for about 20 feet to below where the wall steepens (gear belay).

5.12a (180 feet). Climb a thin face past 6 bolts (12a) to a shelf below the rotten band. Climb this (2 bolts) to reach a large roof with a conspicuous, triangular hole that provides a second crux (11, bolt). Above, trend up and right to a hard bulge (11, 2 bolts) and then a shallow, angling crack (gear) which is followed to the ledge system beneath the Reef (2 bolt anchor).

5.11c (120 feet). A few feet up the ramp to the left is a small pine tree - the route trends slightly rightwards

through the Reef from here. Climb the steep, blocky wall passing 3 well camouflaged bolts to reach the beautiful, clean, rectangular face. Climb this (crux - 3 bolts). Continue up an easier slab (1 bolt), and then pull the bulge at an obvious yellow crack (gear) to a sloping ledge (2 bolt anchor).

5.6 (100 feet). Climb the slabby groove above, then trend up and left below a large roof to an easy crack leading to a belay at the crest of

Rincon

buttress.

Descent: scramble easily off the back of the ridge, and descend past the base of Shirt Tail Peak.

Many thanks to ACE for their help with the approval and hardware that made this route happen.

Quickdraws, a standard rack to 3 inches, and a few long slings. P2 has 11 bolts, and P3 has 7 bolts.