- Edit (TBD)
Description
Per
Adam Brink
: this is a truly stellar pitch of slab climbing on bullet stone. There is a dangerous direct start, but most people go up the first 20 feet of
Rincon
, place some protection, and traverse left to the first bolt. From the first bolt to the little roof, it is devious, nails thin, and consistently difficult climbing. I have yet to see this onsighted on lead. Any takers on that glory?
After the roof, most climbers go right into the short, right-facing corner. This makes the bolts hard to clip (or even see!), but it is the easiest way. There is a direct version going straight up the bolted arete that has been toproped but not yet led.
A big part of the challenge of this route is finding the holds. Please don't use or leave tick marks! - not only does it greatly reduce the difficulty for the next climber, but it ruins any chance of a true onsight.
The difficulty of this route is hard to gauge. Just check out the suggested ratings! They go from 5.11c (totally insane!) to 5.19c/d (from one of the most well rounded climbers anywhere). Personally, it took as much effort to send as
The Evictor
or Eldo 5.12+.
Protection
QDs.
Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R
- 2Camouflage5.12b/cSport