- Edit (TBD)
Description
Walking left from the approach trail about midway between the big roof area and Stewart's Crack is a right facing bolted seem/flake that heads up a very steep slab (the Porcelain Wall). Head up the seem to a difficult sequence to gain an undercling under the little roof and good layback holds to the right. Plug in a cam or two and do a reach out left to another good flake and cam placement. One more bolt protects the final crux and the final slab run, which luckily eases up as you get further away from it and head to the nice belay ledge with a two bolt anchor. This route is an interesting, technical and surprisingly burly climb, but it unfortunately suffers from seepage much of the time, hence Dave naming it Moldy Bolts while bemoaning the fact that it will rarely get climbed. If you see it dry and have the needed slab climbing skill, jump on it while you can. First bolted ground up with some aid by David Powers , Randy Garcia and Matt Elliott 2010, it was lead free in 2017 by Sam Sam Benderhoff. Short climbers may find the lower crux reachy and a little burly at the grade
Location
In the middle of the Porcelain Wall, maybe 100' right of Stewart's Crack
Protection
Mostly bolts, with a few mid sized cams (fat fingers to fat hands ?) in between. There is a good modern 2 bolt anchor.
Routes in The Main Wall
- 22Moldy Bolts5.12aTrad