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Peak Mountain 3

Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn

FA lortie/strand 93
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

After the approach, the climbing is about equal. Super climbing on perfect rock. About the hardest F/A I've done. Way good steep slab climbing in a real remote setting. Way hard climbing up a steep dark slab, very sustained and sweet. If this was on Cathedral. no one would EVER do it. Some beta; decently tough climbing off the ground 11A past a bolt to a rest.Gear up in the small corner to your right and then move onto the slab. Hard and harder moves past bolts and then a big iron cross type move out right to a micro knob//crux stand up/ mantle to a rest. One more 5.11 section (bolt may be shady, i was gripped) and then the belay

Location

rap 90' from a pin/bolt anchor

Protection

Some small cams and bolts. Currently the bolts realty should be replaced, as they are old 5/16" buttonheads. Also, it is a bit far (understatement) to the first bolt and a possible gear placement before it is pretty crumbly (great rock the rest of the route), so be careful. It is well worth a rebolting.You can get to the anchors now by doing the newer route Dry Run.