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Peak Mountain 3

Blurry Eyes

FA Dmitriy Shirokov and Mark Sprague 9/5/2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Named for the fact that it was early and I was still half asleep when we put it up. The original first pitch is short, about 30 feet, and likely overgrown at the start, heading up a thin crack to a ledge with a bolted anchor 5.10-. The protection starts with a couple thin wires, but gets better as you go. The more common way to start now is to work up the arete to the right (bolt), until you can pop left to the flake, then head up the hand crack formed by the disconnected, but wedged (hopefully) big flake 5.8. That takes you up to the same anchor. The second pitch is gorgeous slab climbing on super rock, with knobs and dimples with the occasional pocket or seam, with the crux overlap near the top. P2 is all bolt protected except for one cam placement in a slotted pocket before the overlap.

Location

Located on the far left side of the Main Wall. It is just left of an obvious large, dark brown and yellow (and likely green), right facing corner with a roof (The Gift) .To get to the far left of the Main wall, once past the Great Arch and up on the plateau where Green Party and Trust the Rubber begin, scramble up to the left along the cliff line another 100 feet to another level, passing a couple bolted lines and up to where there are some big blocks at the base.

Protection

Pitch one, original thin seam start - trad, small wires and cams to larger nuts and large finger sized cams. The new start to the right - One bolt and some cams, but don't fall on them (Warning- The big flake will probably stay there for a very long time, but there is really very little rock that it is pivoting on at the bottom) Pitch 2 - 1/2" SS rawl bolts and one cam in a slotted pocket, your choice, gray Camalot or a smaller one further back. Both anchors are 2 bolts with quicklinks. Get down with 2 raps down the route with a single 60m.