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Peak Mountain 3

Nero's Fiddle

FA Mark Sprague, Amy Colbourn - early Sept 2017
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

AKA who needs Wild Iris. Flakes, hand jamming and cool pockets P1 5.9+. Start as for Global Warming, up the flake, past two bolts and through the notch. Once established in the left corner above the notch, follow a short rail out left, sling your #4 and stick it in the slot above, step down and make the reach out left to the good horizontal. Clip the bolt above for your second and continue traversing left on the horizontal past the little trees and the bolted rap anchor, to the right facing corner of Fireside Crack and build a belay (Alternatively use the bolt anchor, but to avoid rope drag  have the belayer hang really low off the bolts and use a directional to pull them to the left)P2 5.10 Wiggle into the notch above and out left on the big flake a move, where you can then place gear to protect the balancy bolt clip above. Make a reach move with the right to a pocket beyond the bolt (crux).  Continue up the line of pockets (bolts) to gain the start of the marvelous 5.9 handcrack that is eventually the top of Fireplace Crack.Lower off the ramshorns out right, directly down to the mid rap anchors you passed before and you can belay your second from there. From the mid anchor you can lower or rap to the ground with a single 60m .

Location

Right hand side of the cliff -borrows the start of Global Warming, which climbs the flake on the left edge of of Main Cliff Right (2 bolts and heads through the notch)

Protection

Set of cams to #4 Camalot, doubles .4 or .5 to 3.

Bring a few slings, tape for the back of the hands