Captain Crunch

This is the rarest of rare -- a 5.13 sport route in Eldorado Canyon. While not as good as its compatriots

Your Mother

or

The Web

, it's still a good tick for those who like bouldery routes (the business is only 20 feet long).

This route is on the small (40-foot high) buttress below and south of the Roof Wall, right above the start of the trail up to the west side of Redgarden Wall. It's just down and right of a thin crack (

Breakfast of Champions

) and can be recognized by a large grey half-inch bolt partway out the overhang and by the bounty of chalk on the flakes underneath the lip.

Aid out to the 1/2 inch bolt via a rusty pin and an old star drive on the left. Clip it and lower down, as the actual climbing begins down and right. Burly slap moves take you up the funky, overhanging rib to a final lip encounter on poor slopers (don't bother with this route if it's hot out). Another bolt or two gets you over the slab and up to the rusty chain anchors.

Five to six quickdraws.