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Peak Mountain 3

Apprehension

FA Wayne Crill, 4/13/14
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Apprehension is similar in quality and difficulty to

Premonition

, more difficult getting onto the face over the lip, and a little more spicy protection wise throughout.

Begin 2m right and down from the tree on the sub-ramp that marks the start of the p3 arete on

Premonition

(erroneously called

Velvet Arete

in this database). Look for a thin, vertical crack about 1-2m left of a shallow, broken, left-facing corner below the roof and an obvious downward and left-facing flake in the roof. Climb up this crack (gear) to the broken break below the roof using the flake in the roof to reach hidden holds on the face above. This may be reachy and the gear is a bit below you but the flake is very solid, and you can get your feet high to reach good holds on the face. Exciting. Gear can be placed (with difficulty) in a crack to the right or just get established on the face and immediately find good gear above (crux, 8+ R). Climb straight up the face on good quality rock with sparse gear, staying 3-4 meters right of the

Premonition

arête (5.8 R). Top out at an obvious stance/alcove high on the lower ramp. Were it not for the slightly foreshortened nature of the pitch and the slight squeeze between

Premonition

and

Sub Slab

, this line would be well worth a solid two of four stars. Jalepeno to Habenero spicy.

Location

Apprehension is located on the Redgarden wall below the lower ramp area. It climbs high quality vertical face between the last pitch of

Premonition

(currently listed under the name

Velvet Arete

in this database, I would add

Premonition

proper, but I have not climbed the lower two pitches...) and

Sub Slab

.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack including micronuts and micro cams.


Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp


  1. 35
    Apprehension
    5.8+
    Trad