- Edit (TBD)
Description
We had thought this was possibly a first ascent, BUT after recently receiving some updated info from Kent McClannan, he and Bruce Miller had already climbed this fun line in 2010!
We didn't climb it until October 3, 2012. We weren't sure if anyone had done this variation before, but it was well worth the effort!! Climb the 5.6 corner to start, then keep left at its top to gain the broken ledge at the base of the "Kor Direct" 2nd pitch. Start up the "Kor Direct", instead of trending left to black rock, continue up and right to the obvious, 2" crack that disappears up into the clean face (I've climbed up this way and then traversed back left to the "Kor Direct" and it is a fun way to go also...). Place a few bomber cams in the disappearing crack. Step out right below a shallow, right-facing, seamless corner that leads up into the wide looking crack out the left side of the roof above. A series of runout liebacks and edges brings you up under the roof. A 3.5" cam protects the steep, wide slot up to 5.9 climbing above....
I feel the difficulty was very similar to the the roofy cruxes at the top of "
Eat Or Be Eaten
" with an "R-ish" rating. This is really an awesome pitch at 5.10b R (120').
Protection
Standard Eldo rack (variety of sizes).
Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
- 56Hasting's Cutoff5.10bTrad