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Peak Mountain 3

Slime Monster

FA Mike Brooks, Andrea Azoff, Jim Stuberg, 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I’m surprised Tony B. has not posted this! It’s not very good though. It does not deserve a bomb rating or a star. You have to choose one though, so I chose a bomb. The crux of the route is near the bottom just above the rotten band. You can place a bomber nut here and a tri-cam as well. This feels hard for a 5.9 as listed in the guidebook. It feels more like a 5.10. Pulling out of the rotten band and over the small roof, there is one good hand hold and one sloper hand hold, and you loose sight of your feet.

Above, you climb a short slab and do a few moves of

The Slimy Spoon

before reaching a small roof with hand-sized jams and good hand holds. This section is easily protectable. You then reach the sub-ramp where you can belay. You can then climb

The Slimy Spoon

,

Vertical Smile

, or something else along the sub-ramp to the left.

Location

Start to the left, north, of

The Slimy Spoon

and

Rosy I

at the next obvious weakness in the rotten band of rock. This is just left of a small tree. You can see a small slot at the top of the rotten rock leading to a slab above.

Protection

A standard rack. There is no fixed anchor.


Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp


  1. 38
    Slime Monster
    5.9
    Trad