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Peak Mountain 3

Super Slab Direct Start

FA Art Higby & Larry Marquardt, 1973. (Pat Ament, Larry Dalke?)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This often over looked route has a pretty good first pitch but the second pitch is a little loose and dirty.

P1: Make a committing move right off the ground and clip a good pin. The crux is trying to get past this pin and it is very height dependent. If your about 6' tall, 11c is probably accurate, taller and it is easier, shorter and it's probably 5.12. Continue up an easier, left-facing dihedral to a broken ledge and belay.

P2: Climb straight up from the ledge following a broken up crack system that angles slightly left. This pitch is a little runout, but the climbing isn't very difficult, maybe 10a. Belay on the ledge at the start of

Super Slab

.

Location

This route starts right off the trail just left of

Suparete

. Look for a steep face/crack with a Lost Arrow pin in it.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #2 or #3 Camalot.


Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp


  1. 54
    Super Slab Direct Start
    5.11
    Trad