Crack of Desperation

This sustained pitch combines good exposure and wild moves to make a great climb. While not particularly hard, this is not the climb for the 5.9 leader looking to break into 5.10 trad.

It is halfway up the wall, necessitating an approach pitch. The obvious choice is "

That's Weak

" (bolted 5.10a), an unremarkable, but not unenjoyable face climb. From the bolted anchor at the top of "

That's Weak

", head up and right to the obvious, wide crack. The rock quality at the start of this pitch isn't great, but it doesn't detract from the overall quality of the route. Grunt up the slightly right-leaning wide crack. I recall some fist jamming, liebacking, and placing my #4 Camalot here. As you continue up the corner, it is possible to get a rest before you have to commit to the roof.

I got a good #3 Camalot deep in the crack before swinging into the roof moves, but you may be able to get a #2 instead. The roof is a spectacular mix of stemming and liebacking, and I actually found a no hands rest near the top of it by wedging myself into the slot. Once you are established above the roof, continue up for 10-15 feet to a horizontal crack. From here, it is possible to get a directional and head right to the ledge near the top of "Trash It and Move On" and place a gear anchor on the ledge. Or, if you aren't too pumped, continue up the final bulge of "Trash It..." (2-3 bolts, 5.10+) to a bolted rap station.

It is possible to do all the routes on this area of the wall with one 60m rope. From the top of "Trash It...", it is less than 100 feet back to the bolts at the top of "

That's Weak

".

SR to a #4 Camalot. I recall thinking that doubles from #1-3 would not go unused. Anyone else remember?