- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a fun, two-pitch route that looks like a complete slab from the ground - be prepared for a surprisingly steep crux.
Pitch 1 starts with a 10+ move right off the deck over a boulder. You get a clip before you start, but make sure your belayer is paying close attention. Twenty feet of easy climbing leads to a headwall that is not slabby, but may even be overhanging by a degree or two. Work up a technical diagonal undercling to a long reach and a clip - followed by another long reach, all with horrid feet. This is the crux (11d). Then you finish with an 11a slab.
Pitch 2 is the rightmost of the two lines that leave from the ledge. This pitch has excellent stone and nice continuity (11c).
Le Stat is the rightmost of all the lines on Vampire. After you come up the trail, go right about 30 feet to find it.
Protection
P1: 9 bolts. P2: 9 bolts.
Routes in Vampire Rock
- 22Le Stat5.12aSport