- Edit (TBD)
Description
From the belay ledge above the first pitch of
Le Stat
, there are two bolted lines on the face above. The right line is the excellent 2nd pitch of
Le Stat
. The left line is Fear of Sunlight.
Begin with tricky moves along the rounded arete. A ledge system at mid-height provides a rest before tackling the crux finish.
The upper section seems squeezed and contrived, as one can easily switch back and forth from easier climbing on
Le Stat
in several places. Not only that, but a poor bolting job at the crux forces one to face a potentially dangerous ledge fall. Since most people will likely climb Le Stat first, before leading, it is highly recommended that one place a 24" draw on the 2nd to last bolt when lowering off the shared anchor.
Climbing the lower half of this route into the upper part of
Le Stat
makes an excellent 11a.
Protection
8 or 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with
Le Stat
.
Routes in Vampire Rock
- 21Fear of Sunlight5.11dSport