The Vampire

The Vampire scales the entire face of Vampire Rock in 4 short pitches. Although there is a lot of loose rock on this route, I give it three stars because there are quality sections, it has interesting position, thought provoking moves and it's rare to get this far off the deck in Boulder Canyon. I think it's a Kor route.

P1. There are two ways to start. Either climb the bolted route '

That's Weak

' up to the chain anchors, or climb the left angling corner system which starts 20 fee to the right of '

That's Weak

' up to the same fate. In keeping with the spirit of the climb, I prefer the original start up the corner system. Some loose rock, but the pro is adequate and it goes at about 5.7. '

That's Weak

' is rated .10a but seems easier to me; maybe 5.9 and fun.

P2. Lead up the discontinuous hand and finger crack angling slightly left to the big corner/slot. Climb past two OLD ring pins and work up into the slot (crux). Pull the roof and move right on a low angled slab. Belay about 10 feet up and right of the slot. I combined this pitch with the next one and had insane rope drag.

P3. Work up and left under the big roof. Traverse to the left side of the overhang on slabular terrain, exit onto the ramp and move up to the right to belay at some chains.

P4. Not sure if we did the correct last pitch, but this way was stellar. Climb up the ramp a bit further and work up into a left facing corner with a nice crack. Good jugs lead up to a steep layback and fist crack, past a basketball sized bush (as of 9/3/02) and tops out on a low angled slab with insecure holds. Continue up to find a good belay on level rock. This pitch felt 5.9 to me but is short.

Descent: we walked off to the southwest to gain the steep, vegetated gully. It was kind of annoying but safe. There are chain anchors all over Vampire Rock, so you could probably do 3 or 4 raps to end where you started. Maybe the norm??

This is a fun little adventure that seems to see very little traffic.

SR, mostly mid-sized cams & stoppers up to 3".