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Peak Mountain 3

Psycho Pigeon

FA Webster and Browning, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Per

MauryB

: this is about as good as Eldo climbing gets: exciting moderate sections with some sustained, well-protected 5.11 cruxes.

From the very upper end of the upper ramp/meadow, just left of the original broken corner start to

Mellow Yellow

, locate the break through the overhang with some obvious holds (you can get some decent gear for a belay). A few steep committing moves on good holds lead to some bomber hand-sized cams. Follow the obvious but delicate climbing up and left until eventually - delicately - moving to the arete and up to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10R). Wave at the crowds on

The Yellow Spur

as you're about to join them.

P2 follows the obvious line of bolts up and right around the arete then continues up to the crow's nest belay on

TYS

(5.11, this can be combined with P1 with judicious use of slings).

P3 starts up the pin ladder of

TYS

for about 15 feet then breaks up and left to the two bolts visible on the face - plug some bomber gear as it's a bit of a journey to that first bolt! Join the Robbins traverse and the ridge to the summit (5.11).

Protection

An Eldo rack.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower One


  1. 31
    Psycho Pigeon
    5.11a
    Trad