- Edit (TBD)
Description
A sweet line and a natural final pitch after
Vertigo
,
Doub-Griffith
,
Super Slab
, etc.... Or upon rapping
CC
, do this and rap it again.
From the base of
Chockstone Chimney
, step right and climb R facing corner to where you can traverse R. across face (same as
Italian Arete
, I believe). From the arete, climb straight up over roof, passing obvious horn (I slung it as this feels a bit committing). Then follow crack system to the top, passing crux thin section on overhanging, neon lichen face (looks like it could be a closed seam from the ground, it's not!), cool moves!. Move left up high and pull the upper roof at a hand crack. Belay on large ledge to hear your 2nd better or wander to the top on easy but blocky rock.
This line is reasonably protected (YMMV, use your best judgment) and super fun!
NOTE: This route may have suspect rock in places, so climb accordingly. I cleaned most of the portable handholds off but....
The crux section, however, seemed bomber.
Location
Start at the base of
Body Tremors
and
Chockstone Chimney
. Top out where Italian Arete does and walk back down to do
Chockstone Chimney
rap.
Protection
A double set of cams through #3 Camalot and a set of nuts is more than enough. Doubles in #3 and #2 sizes were way nice. A green Alien slotted just when you want it. A bunch of shoulder slings and a couple doubles.
Routes in Redgarden - Tower One
- 42Consummation Nite5.11aTrad