To RP Or Not To Be

This is Derek's Eldo masterpiece left of the third pitch of the Doub/Griffith. There has always been some confusion as to where the pitch goes due to the to licheny nature of the face, but once you figure out where it is, you can't miss it.

We climbed Superslab to the belay below the crux pitch and, clipping the bolt up on Superslab as a directional, lowered straight down the pitch (80 feet) to an obvious starting foothold just left of the arete. For reference, this pitch (and foothold) is reached by traversing around the corner about 20 below the two bolts and the pin that protect the 11a crux on the third pitch of the Doub-Griffith.

Hand traverse left on a pocket band from the foothold (juts out of a purple break, the third striation on the wall when seen from a distance), slotting in a sideways nut. Hard moves take you up and left to a small stance (sling a horn out left). Move straight up the very obtuse corner system (more of a bowl) on small, positive edges, slotting RPs as you go, and climbing generally about 10 feet left of the Doub-Griffith arete. A couple of the RPs seemed pretty good, others were just body weight. Expect long runouts.

Tim Kemple and I (Pinklebear) did this pitch in headpoint style (toprope rehearsal, gear placed on lead): it was the only way I, as a tourist in Derek's world, would get to experience this incredible route. So while we didn't match or better the first-ascent style (Derek pre-inspected the pitch on rappel, then led it), we did get a bit of chalk on the holds. Whether you choose to ground-up lead this route, pre-inspect it, or toprope it, you won't be disappointed. This is one of the best vertical face climbs in Eldo.

Double set of RPs, thin slings or perlon for a horn.