Grand Giraffe

P1. This route starts from the top of the lower ramp, the same place as

Ruper

. Climb the obvious crack up and gently trend right until you reach a crack with two pins that parallels the large, sloping

Rover

dihedral, 5.9+.

P2. This is an easy pitch (5.4) which follows a ramp and wide crack leftward to the base of the dreaded, right-facing corner of the Grand Giraffe (which breaches the roof left of

Art's Spar

).

P3. This is the crux, and the difficulties start immediately. The first moves are protected by an ancient piton. At the start, you can chimney the crack with your back against the left wall, but soon the footholds on the right disappear. If you are a weenie like me, place a big Camalot above you at this point, which gives you a toprope for the crux. Struggle up through the crux and place your other big piece.

Although the upper part of this crack looks intimidating, I found the crux to be the first 15'. Near the top you have to climb the main part of the overhang, but there is good pro and holds here. Belay at the Upper Ramp.

From here, the route continues above the Upper Ramp via two more fun pitches (5.7, but mildly runout). Cross the upper ramp to the upper end of a huge cave, 4th class (lower end is the start of upper

Ruper

and

Alice in Bucketland

). Downclimb the ramp towards the left corner of a large cave.

P4. Climb up alongside the shallow, right-facing corner, then make your way to towards a pink alcove with a single bolt.

P5. The final pitch angles up and left, crossing a roofline at its left edge then continues up and right to the saddle between T1 and T2.

Standard rack to 3", plus some big gear will make this route comfy, say a #4.5 and a #5 Camalot.