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Peak Mountain 3

Heat Wave

FA Gene Vallee, 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Near the left end of the cliff you cant miss this perfect left leaning crack coming out of a small cave. If you start down in the cave it's more like 5.12 and called Maximum Heat. For a challenging 5.11 (the way it's most often done)start off the rock and lean out for your first jams. Follow the crack system up and left to a mellow finish and a tree anchor.

I found the crux to be the first 2/3 of the steep climbing haha. really pumpy and sustained, by the time it lets up and you get a few good jams it feels just as hard due to exaustion. the upper 20-30 feet are mellow 5.7ish climbing thank god haha. a great route with good protection. do it. It's steep, hard, funky and beautiful.

Location

Near the left end of Devils Den, you will see this amazing line leaning left and beckoning...

Protection

Regular rack. anchor to trees