Devil's in the Details

An easy corner leads to a wild and committing boulder problem through a roof, finishing on a spooky face above.

Start at the base of the Bates route and Crossroads, and climb up an easy corner to a big ledge at the base of the roof. Climb up the corner into an awkward undercling crack and do a wild sequence out of the big roof to the pedestal rest on crossroads. Finish on the run out upper face of that climb (which should feel a bit harder this time around).

It's really good, I'd recommend figuring out the sequence in the roof before trying to lead it. Good thing you can check it out after lowering off Crossroads.

This is the direct line out the big roof to the left of Lycra Sanction, to the right of Speckman's.

Micro cams and ballnuts to #4 cams, double length runners, possible boulder pad or wear hockey pads for leading.

_____________________ Gear beta spoiler alert: - #3 down low with a long sling for the easy corner -.5/#1/#2 for on the ledge to protect gaining the next placement -.75 with a double length kind of blindly placed in the big part of the undercling - #4 in a perfect slot placed from a heel hook and a jug after going big out the roof - .2/Black totem in a crack on the right of the pedestal - .2/black totem & Red ballnut in a horizontal half way up the upper face - quickdraw for chains

In order to prevent rope drag I put a double length runner on the .75 in the corner, which would mean hitting the ledge if you blew the boulder problem. Because of this, and possibly watching hard grit videos, I put a boulder pad on the ledge for my lead. I'm not sure it would have helped, but I thought I might at least bounce off it.