We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Homebase (aka. Bring your Monkey Along)

FA Paul Boisssonneault, 1980's
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the vertical crack to the left of Heat Wave. There are 2 cruxes. Getting off the ground and an upper crux to reach a welcomed jug. The gear on the upper section could take over your holds making the moves quite tough so you may want to plan accordingly.A left variation is also an option. Exit the left flake near the top of the crack. Be sure to extend your last piece out as you will be moving back right. Surprisingly good with interesting movement. It felt about the same grade but could be pushing .11. FA - Unknown.

Location

The route is located on the furthest left side of Devils Den. 30' Down hill from the chimney. Locate a vertical/slightly overhanging crack left of a right to left leaning crack (Heat Wave).

Protection

Standard Rack to #4 will get you to the top. A #2 for the final 20' will make the top out to the tree plenty safe.After you exit the crack, climb up and left on some common Pawtuckaway slab and a usual pine needle filled crack to a tree anchor. A single 60m rope will get you to the ground from the tree. A 70m is needed if you pass the tree to the bolt anchor at the top of the cliff.