Missing Link

Missing Link is a variation to the dihedral pitch of Gambit. From the cramped alcove "belay" midway up pitch 2 (where Gambit cuts right to switch to the left-facing corner), Missing Link instead takes the obvious chalked roof crack out left. The crack is easier than it appears and involves more underclinging and reaching than jamming. A balance transfer onto a high foot ledge (flexibility helps here) moves past sharp hand jams and onto some lower angled, lichen-covered rock. Face climb up to a spacious ledge and continue with Gambit, Ginseng Junkie, or Tiger Balm Arete. The latter is highly recommended to conclude any Shirt Tail route; moderate and extremely exposed arete crawling in a superb position to gain the loftiest summit in Eldorado.

Trade a three-star pitch for a one-star boulder problem and you've got Missing Link. Exchange the beautiful, clean, sustained Gambit dihedral for a cruxy, awkward, flaky and unaesthetic variation only if you really want something a little more difficult than 5.8.

This pitch requires cams up to a #1 Camalot. Unless you're soloing 5.8, your rack for the approach pitches will more than suffice. Handsize pieces may be useful for the belay.