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Peak Mountain 3

Ginseng Junkie

FA Richard Rossiter and Linda Willing, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Another short pitch on the "Tour of 5.10 Variations to

Gambit

," this one improves slightly over

Missing Link

on quality. From the big ledge above

Missing Link

(or the top of the dihedral pitch of

Gambit

), belay near a pine tree. Work up a short, bulging, triangular corner with a fist crack (briefly 5.9) to another ledge, step right to a steep dihedral, and ascend a nice finger crack to a larger ledge (Yosemite Ledge).

From the belay on Yosemite Ledge, continue straight up easier cracks overhead, or, perhaps better, traverse to the left margin of the massive Shirttail face, and join the spectacular summit pitch of

Tiger Balm Arete

.

Protection

Eldo gear to a #1 Camalot, plus a #3.5 or 4 Camalot for a short fist crack below the crux.