Future Primitive

A fun route up the Giucco Piano Arete that ends up on the top of ShirtTail Peak.

P1 -- To start, scramble up and right past the vertical lower section of the arete (Rossiter). You'll start at a big tree in an alcove, and climb about 40 feet up along a discontinuous L facing dihedral to another large tree with slings.Past the tree it's up a gully, and at 100 head L into a rotten band.

P2 -- Climb through 2 bushes (amusing if you're in the right mood), and head L at the first available crack. A 3.5 cam fits nicely here, and now the climbing is terrific: exposed airy moves heading straight to the arete. A bit loose. Excellent pro on the far side of the arete for anchors.100 feet.

P3 -- Up the arete, 130 feet, to a false summit. Beautiful.

P4 -- Climb the SE arete to the summit. 100 feet.

If the first pitch and a half weren't so bushy, I'd say 2 stars. Still, this is a fun, well-protected moderate climb.

Standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot, med to big stoppers. I found small tricams helpful.